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Le Point
Here is a pure product of the capital of the Gauls. A boy from Saint-Forgeux, in the Monts du Lyonnais, infused with the delights of Jean Brouilly in Tarare and Philippe Gauvreau in Charbonnières-les-Bains. At the Cour des Loges, Anthony Bonnet celebrates the roots of his terroir in the heart of a Florentine courtyard, under a 17-metre high glass roof. The gone simply stuffed his rainbow trout with baby spelt, spinach and seasonal mushrooms before baking it whole in the oven wrapped in a cereal crust. "The soft flesh of the fish then unfolds subtle salmon flavours impregnated with buckwheat," he says. A creation awakened by the acidity of the creamy watercress.
RAINBOW TROUT IN A CEREAL CRUST, CREAMY WATERCRESS
At the market
1 rainbow trout of 1.5 to 2 kilos,
100 g spinach, beaten egg yolk,
50 g of seeds, salt.
Cooked spelt: 150 g of spelt, 50 cl of stock, 1 shallot, 100 g of seasonal mushrooms.
olive oil, white wine, salt.
Cereal dough: 550 g T55 flour,
550 g buckwheat flour, 4 eggs,
335 g water.
Watercress cream: 1 bunch of watercress, 2 onions, 1 fennel, 100 g vegetable stock, 100 g cream, olive oil, salt.
At the stove
Cereal dough: mix the flours in a bowl. Add the eggs and water to obtain a malleable dough.
Cooked spelt: in a casserole dish, sweat the chopped shallot and the chopped mushrooms with olive oil. Disseminate the spelt. Pour in the white wine. Leave to cook for three minutes. Pour in the stock to the top. Add salt. Bake covered for forty minutes at 180°C.
Trout: open the fish from the back. Remove the middle bone and the small bones. Wash the fish. Mix 100 g chopped spinach with the cooked spelt and salt. Fill the fish with this filling. Roll out the cereal dough. Form two rectangles. Place the trout on the first rectangle and cover it with the second. Brush the pastry with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle with the seeds. Bake for twenty minutes at 170°C.
Watercress cream: wash the watercress. Remove the stems. Blanch half of it in boiling water for five seconds. Refresh it. Set aside. Chop the onions and fennel. In a saucepan, sweat them with olive oil. Pour in the stock, cream and salt. Cook for ten minutes. Add half the remaining raw watercress. Bring to the boil for two minutes. Blend in the blanched watercress. Season to taste. Strain.
Dressage
Cut off the cereal crust. Slice the trout. Place in the centre of a plate. Pour in the watercress cream.
The wine of Olivier Bompas
Savennières, domaine Patrick Baudouin, 2016.
"This Chenin to be decanted offers a delicate nose of flowers and white fruits. Round on the palate, fat, velvety and with great persistence."
